Best Pie & Mash In London
Let’s be honest: London can be a soggy, grumpy city. You’ve got rain that thinks it’s a comedian, tube delays that test your will to live, and rents that require a small mortg...
Let’s be honest: London can be a soggy, grumpy city. You’ve got rain that thinks it’s a comedian, tube delays that test your will to live, and rents that require a small mortgage for a shoebox. But when the grey drizzle seeps into your soul, there is only one culinary cure: pie and mash. This isn’t just food; it’s a warm, gravy-filled hug from a Cockney grandmother who probably swears like a sailor.
The Holy Trinity: Pie, Mash, and That Green Stuff
First, let’s talk about the liquor. No, not the gin you’ll want after finding a parking spot. We’re talking about that bright green, parsley-based sauce that looks like swamp water but tastes like heaven. It is the glue that holds this glorious mess together. Real pie and mash places don’t do fancy sauces; they do this emerald elixir, and you will beg for extra ladles.
The pie itself? It’s a pastry fortress. The top is flaky, the bottom is sturdy, and inside is a filling of minced beef or, if you’re brave, eels. Yes, eels. This dish was born in the 19th century when the Thames was swimming with the slimy buggers, and Londoners decided to eat their way through the problem. It worked. Now, you can get steak and kidney, but the classic eel pie is a historical dare you should take.
The Contenders: Where to Get Your Fix
You can’t just walk into any greasy spoon. You need a proper eel and pie house. These are temples of linoleum floors, wooden benches, and staff who call you “my love” while judging your life choices. Let’s get to the best, shall we?
M. Manze (Bermondsey and Walthamstow)
This is the Rolls-Royce of pie and mash. Manze has been around since 1902, which means they’ve perfected the art of making you feel like a Victorian orphan—but in the best way. Their pastry is so buttery it practically melts on your tongue. Get the double pie (two pies, one plate) and watch your cholesterol rise with joy. The liquor here is so green it glows in the dark. Pro tip: add a splash of vinegar and pepper, then stand back as your taste buds do the cha-cha.
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G. Kelly (Bethnal Green)
If Manze is the church, G. Kelly is the raucous pub next door. This place is tiny, cramped, and glorious. You’ll queue with builders, bankers, and grandmas who’ve been coming since the Blitz. The pie crust is a tad thicker, which means it’s perfect for dunking. And here’s the surprising fact: They still use traditional eels caught in the UK. That’s right—you’re eating a piece of British maritime history, slathered in gravy. Don’t be a wimp; order the jellied eels on the side. They look like wobbly cubes of pure terror, but they taste like the sea got pickled.
L. Manze (Tower Bridge Road)
Same name, different branch, but this one is a Time Machine. It’s a Grade II listed building, which is fancy-speak for “nothing has changed since 1920.” The pies are handmade on-site, and you can see the steam rising from the vats. Order a “two-and-two” (two pies, two scoops of mash) and drown it in liquor. The mash here is dangerously smooth—like clouds made of potatoes. If you eat it too fast, you’ll choke on happiness. Also, they have a strict “no ketchup” policy. They’ll kick you out. Seriously.
The Dark Side: Pie & Mash Fails
Let’s be real: not all pie and mash is created equal. Avoid places that serve brown liquor (that’s just gravy, mate, and it’s a sin). Avoid “gourmet” versions with truffle oil or sourdough crust. That’s like putting a leather jacket on a pigeon—just wrong. If the shop has a neon sign and a QR code menu, run away. You want chipped Formica tables and a cash-only policy. That’s where the soul lives.
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Also, a weird fact: the best pie and mash shops are often located near funeral parlors. I’m not kidding. Go to Manze near Tower Bridge? There’s a funeral home two doors down. It’s because old-school Londoners used to stop for a pie after burying Auntie Mabel. Nothing says “carpe diem” like gravy and grief.
The Verdict: Get Stuffed
So, which is the best? You’ll have to fight a dozen Cockney pensioners to find out. My personal winner is M. Manze in Bermondsey for its sheer historical perfection, but G. Kelly wins for chaotic energy. Just go to both. Eat two lunches. Treat yourself. Life is short, and pie is eternal.
Just remember: slather it in liquor, splash on the vinegar, and leave your diet at the door. Your arteries might hate you, but your soul will be doing a jig. And if you see a blob of green sauce on your chin, don’t wipe it off. That’s your badge of honor. Now go forth and get mashed—in the best possible way.